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How long does it take (to earn their trust)? Some of the most frequent questions come from new mule owners who are discouraged about the aloofness of the mule they just introduced to their home. We all know the excitement that comes with adding a new member to our families, the joy of watching his/her behavior, the search for clues about the character of the new animal, and last not least the extensive plans we make for his/her welfare. But the mule may stay reserved. The animal that you watched perform at his/her former home may be very sluggish at responding to any cues from you. Being a member of the equine family, he follows in their footsteps: horses, donkeys, mules are herd animals and flight animals -- they consider themselves prey and are constantly alarmed about perceived danger lurking. There is "safety in numbers" -- even if the number is as low as two -- this wisdom, gained from their ancestors living in the wild, is ingrained into their minds. There is a strict hierarchy in the herd and he has to find his place; and there is the immediate encounter with the caretaker -- someone of a different species that previously may or may not have behaved badly towards him, knowingly or unknowingly. These are the main obstacles that the mule faces once introduced into your care - others are the change of his feed and the general physical environment. Mules appear to be creatures of habit - they like their water just so once they are accustomed to it, they like their food the way it is always served and they get disturbed about changes in their pen - some more , some less, but the degree of their perception of change is astounding. Again, the prey animal needs to be on guard at all times, and any "change" may include "danger".
My personal experience includes a very difficult, nervous molly who came to me at 2 1/2 yrs old, burdened with bad experiences of being manhandled to force her into submission. This mule's personality is anything but submissive. She is proud, very smart, independent and extremely sensitive. Her previous treatment made her afraid of people who approached her with a certain amount of determination - and worse, carrying an object of some kind that could be used against her. It was easy for me to sense in her a willingness to trust and, most importantly, I sensed a deep understanding between her and me, which allowed this most unlikely relationship to blossom and deepen. Unlikely, because I was drawn to this mule, but I had absolutely no experience with keeping and training one. But -- it all worked out well, and I learned more and more about her special character by reading everything related to mules, horses and donkeys. I had joined donkey-mule groups at yahoo almost a year before deciding to get a mule; at the time a MulesOnly group did not even exist. However, over the years a multitude of websites on training of horses, donkeys and mules have been published. For the most part the "Natural Horsemanship" techniques are best suited for the mule's intelligent and independent frame of mind. NH works with the animal, and typically does not try to squeeze him into a mold. Clicker training also very successful since it establishes a very clear form of communication and keeps the mule's mind busy. The best sources of information about other's personal experiences of keeping and training a mule are found by joining any or all of the donkey-mule groups at yahoo. (see links page) Since the mule is a hybrid, s/he inherited characteristics from both parents, and each mule is a unique mixture, which determines his looks, how he moves and what kind of training/work he is suitable for How long does it take (top) We cannot provide a specific number since it all depends on the factors mentioned above. The variables are too complex to generalize. In our estimation, the 'learning to trust' process takes at least 3 months. You may be able to work with - and ride - a well trained mule before he actually trusts you, but a young or green one will keep studying and testing his new home before he commits. This may happen in the form of play and mischievous mule games - and it is advised to set limits to what you allow the mule to initiate. Eventually a bond/trusting relationship does grow if you are persistent in a quiet, unassuming way. The mule also has an uncanny feel for honesty. Don't be afraid to experiment in your communication with the mule - if you make an 'honest' mistake and correct it, the mule will not hold a grudge. If treated with impatience and meanness he will not forget - that appears to be true. But once you have established a friendship, he will learn to understand that mistakes do happen and will be corrected. Earning/establishing trust can take up to a year. There were reports on the MulesOnly list where someone said that after a year of stand-offish behavior, something finally made her mule 'click'. A lot of soul searching preceded this, but in the end the owner was happy with the outcome. There is a mysterious, deep bond between mule owners and their animals, and once the trust is established, this bond can last for a very long time. There are other stories, where a common bond never gets established - usually because of a personality conflict, or "too much mule" for a novice owner/rider, or a mule with too much 'baggage', i.e. One who has been mistreated and - sadly - has gone downhill from there, being shoved from one home to another. (See also: how to buy a mule What to do with your new mule? (top) Again, it depends on the circumstances. When I got my 2 mules, 1 1/2 years apart, I had to deal with 2 completely different set-ups and temperaments: The molly was young, shy and untrained. To break the ice, I followed some of the techniques that Carolyn Resnick shows in her video tape 'Liberty Training', where a communication is established without the use of tack. The molly was the only equine living here at the time, which made her focus on me as her only companion/teacher (eventually we added a mammoth donkey).
Walking with your mule is a good way to connect, since you are not 'invisible' like you are when you are mounted. It also gives you the opportunity for basic training on the ground. Actual ground training can and should take place in a safe, fenced environment and will help to establish your leadership role. The mule is most comfortable if he learns to rely on your good judgement. In general, mules like to be brushed - and following principles of allowing a mule to avoid a certain situation until he feels comfortable, my mules are not haltered or tied up for brushing. I usually (occasionally) groom them after I feed them - which, of course, makes them want to remain with their hay. In this situaton, avoidance behavior is easily dealt with, since the mule will eventually be drawn back to the food.... In the long run, s/he will get used to grooming and begin to like it - some more than others! My other mule, a john 14 yrs old at the time, came to us fully trained as a trail riding mule. He was frantic during the first 2 days when I kept him apart from the others, but once integrated into the 'herd' he settled down quickly. I rode him a week after he came to us and he was a perfect mount. There was none of the struggle and doubts I had with the molly, but the connection never developed with the same intensity. (Incidentally, this mule is not happy about being brushed..... and was much occupied with finding his place in the herd.) Feed (top) The mule eats hay - but many people also feed some grain. Working mules, which includes those in training or performance mules, should routinely get some grain once a day, but not too much. Mules can get too excited/unmanageable if fed too much rich food, and -- they can get overweight. Alfalfa is also not considered appropriate feed and is to be avoided in larger quantities, since it makes the mule nervous (hot). It has been reported that a change in diet - i.e. reduced amounts of grain or removal or alfalfa - has made many a mule more manageable, i.e. more quiet. The equine's feeding habit in the wild is based on constant grazing - or the constant search for food. The equine's stomach has evolved accordingly and frequent feedings a day are preferred to the common 2x a day feeding. However, often our schedules do not allow for frequent feeding, and the animals have learned to adjust to our schedule. How much? This depends on the area you live in: e.g. a hot or cold climate. In a cold climate the mule needs extra fuel to warm himself from the inside - i.e. more hay. Ask around in your area to get an average figure for the amount of hay to feed and try it out on your mule. There are easy keepers who become rotund and poor keepers who can eat enormous amounts without gaining any weight. Keeping track of your mule's figure, his coat, and his hooves gives you a good indication of whether he gets adequate nutrition. Feed special diets and supplements for special needs. Colic -- a word of warning: while mules in general are said to enjoy fewer health problems than do horses, colics do occur. The problems may even be worse, since they may be hidden longer than in a horse, because the mule - similar to the donkey - tends to not show the physical pain he suffers. More details in our section on mule health. When you turn out your mules in the spring, it is best to gradually get them used to the fresh and very potent new growth of grass. Housing, Fencing The sky is the limit… But honestly, mules do not require much in terms of shelter. In cold climates they need to be sheltered from the wind and rain - but often we find - to our distess - that the mules do not seek out the shelter we provide. In sunny climates, they will be glad to have shade - and if it is a dark space, it may relieve them from the ever present flies. see fly control A lot of people will build a nice barn and stall their mules - I am not happy with the idea of seperating herd animals, but a good barn is certainly a wonderful space for spending time with your critters. Wooden barns are in danger of becoming breakfast, lunch and dinner. Mules like to eat wood - and will munch on the barn even if it is surrounded by a forest.
(photos: Examples of barns, sheds)
What kind of fence? A 4 foot high wooden It also makes sense to protect your wooden fence with a hot wire: it will prevent the mules from eating the fence and stop them from leaning on and breaking the top board. (pictures of fences)
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t his former home and is reluctant now, you can explain this with the insecurity he feels in his new environment. He is not aware of your goodwill, nor of the sacrifices you may have made to give him a new home. The mule functions off his own logic.
It is good to be aware of this background, since these factors will in varying degrees determine your mule's behavior: it all depends on his/her personality, upbringing, and personal experience with handlers or caretakers. The more you learn about your mule's past, the easier it will be to guess at the origin of certain behaviors -- and to get a better shot at finding a 'cure'.
The mule does need to know that you are in charge of the situation. It is part of his character as herd and flight animal, to need direction. He will happy to be placed "under" your command, as long as it leaves his dignity in tact. (See also Mark Rashid)
Haltering and leading her was not a problem, and I took my molly out of her pen for walks around the property and the neighborhood, which she enjoyed tremendously.
A 3-sided run-in shelter is adequate - and if the mules refuse to use it, you may want to begin feeding them in it, to get them used to being in an enclosed space.
board or 3 string hot-wire fence is sufficient for keeping mules confined. Mules can jump these hights, even from a still stand (coon jumping), but commonly they have no reason to do so. Special care should be taken during the first night that your mule spends at your barn/pen/field, since their raised level of anxiety and insecurity may prompt them to simply want to run away. They may jump the fence or find other ways to break out. It happened to us 2 out of 3 times.
